If you do not support the inner race and use the hub as a mounting point you will end up pressing out the inner race of the new bearing and destroying it. This is why the pushing discs have a raised center portion! You may also want to stick a screwdriver in the vents to keep the disc from rotating if you haven't removed it yet. That way, when it's time to put them in, they're slightly undersize. The bearing really needs the use of a press to remove it as they're in quite tight and over the years they settle in really well at the size they are. Replace the brake disc and install its retaining screw.
You may be able to get it to move with a cold chisel and hammer after you've got a slot cut in the race. Put it back in the case. I also heat the knuckle a little with a propane torch or a heat gun before sliding them in. You can check for free-play by jacking up the front of your vehicle and wiggling the wheel up and down. Lots of plus gas on things too. Make sure you didn't bend anything by spinning the hub by hand - it should move smoothly.
There may also be free-play in the bearing. If you can't get it undone then do not continue, it's pointless. However I've always had trouble removing this nut completely so lock plate removal is usually more successful. Put a light coat of grease on the hub splines and insert the stub axle through it. Compare to the new bearing I had to remove after forgetting to install the circlip. I finally put together a video showing the noise from a bad wheel bearing and some of the other updates what have transpired in this thread over the past hojillion years. I used 25 Nm and called it even.
Just in the process of putting mine back together. There is an inner circlip on the bearing that will need to be removed before the bearing will pull out. If it's an auto I don't know if this would work though Right side. A chunk of wood under the end of the breaker bar isn't a bad idea. I personally do not like this method since it can potentially ruin the stub axle itself if miscalculated, but it is an option if you trust your pulse. Some manner of Dremel-type rotary tool with a billion cutoff wheels. Now that the assembly is out you can see that the inner bearing race will remain at the stub axle.
I personally don't like the turn-and-listen method. Ensure the strut rear 'tang' is located in the hub collar slot. You will also need retaining ring pliers. If there is any free-play, replace the bearing. FrostHeater with bumper mounted plug-in mod details. I'm going by dim memory from a few years ago, but you will need some tools.
I don't think you'd get the power behind an extactor tool or the access. Talk to your local garage before starting the job and make sure you have transport to get the hub to them when ready and when it's convenient with them. Please see our article on replacing you front rotor. Now you just have to button everything back up. This is not a crazy difficult job, but there are a number of pitfalls. Next, you get to remove the remainder of the bearing, and it's gonna fight you every step of the way. Tighten the puller to push the axle out of the hub.
Assemble your big 3-jaw puller. Any and all information presented on this website is superseded by the official service manual and is not a substitute for the services or advice of a certified professional mechanic. If in doubt get your local garage to fit it for you. The Bentley manual states that it should be replaced every time. Edit: Always consider a local garage for bearing removal and refit, £10 and a pack of biscuits usually works! To be certain which one is bad, put the front end of the car up on jackstands. On really stuck snaprings it helps to hit the back of the snapring with a chisel to unseat it from its rusted groove. I know everyone like the turn-and-listen method, but that just doesnt work for me for some reason.
The splined end of the drive shaft has to be at least separated from the hub. I've never pulled one apart to see how nasty they can get. Jack up the front of your vehicle and rotate the front wheel, while rotating place your hand on the front coil spring. Bust loose the axle retaining nut with the 30mm 12-point socket on your impact gun. Bad wheel bearing post-mortem inspection. You should be able to pick up a vibration in the spring.
Live and learn: don't forget the circlip. This will require a small and a large torque wrench. Before: After rear view : Wipe up any of the excess grease and use it to give the bearing and steering knuckle a light coat of grease. The bearing has to come out the back of the hub. Take the car to a guru instead. The next bit took a bit of balance. Remember to re-attach the parking brake cable and clip to secure it.
Even though the Bentley manual does not ask to remove the emergency cable, I found it's simpler to remove it since there will be more maneuverability of the caliper if the cable is removed. Then the new wheel bearing, the pusher plate and the long nut. This is often wrong and is almost always dumb! Seals must also be free of leaks to keep out contaminants. Below is the hub with the bearing race removed. First install one of the ball joint nuts and bolts to connect the knuckle to the lower control arm.