I hope it's not something being hidden from us Canadians. The sway bar needed to be retorqued and the bushings on the sway bar needed to be replaced. Can't complain, these were all original parts. What do you guys think? On front, ball joint boots and control arm bushings were badly worn. Probably not critical but worth the extra step. When I replaced them in mine I was surprised at how much tighter the rear of the car felt. I don't know how quality compares, but the factory part was obviously not that great to start with! I see a ton of articles talking about replacing the Watts Linkage itself.
Front rotors showed wear and pads were thin. Does one need special tools or is this reasonably simple, also would the bushings be a dealer or an aftermarket part? Replaced and noise is mostly corrected. Also replaced both watts link control arms. Metal line had hairline crack, pump had to be removed to find. I cannot wait to get these pieces replaced! The free play will be noticeable. When I made a right hand turn, found steering wheel very hard to turn. After third inquiry, I found a dealer who found that a power steering hose was leaking.
Soak that nut - a little heat doesn't hurt either. Right front wheel had a bad vibrations. What do you guys think? Last set installed in October of 2012. I don't have a terrible amount of money to spend right now, but I still want to do this the proper way. The watts link causes clunking under the rear of the car when it goes bad. It really does not matter. Mine wasn't making any noise but the ball joint covers were torn.
Replaced right rear wheel bearing in the driveway. That bolt is pretty tight, and the rust doesn't help. So bad that a loud popping noise was heard over slightest bump and around turns. Car still making noise coming from rear, unknown problem. Factory original and Mopar replacement. I don't think it's possible to replace them without a hydraulic press, which I had access to.
It appears to be a one-off or prototype from Ravenworks. Loved the look and style, but it was too much trouble. Here's the rear axle viewed from the rear. Mechanic thinks it may be a bush on a 'torsion bar' sp? My guess is that the holes are spot on. This provides lateral limitation of the body during either left or right hand turns. Replaced outer tie-rod ends on both sides. There is so much wrong with the clearances of the stock watts system and attaching fasteners that even if they were off I doubt the effect would be a problem? Replaced but noise returned several days later.
I had planned to return the Dorman at the top to RockAuto because the holes were so far off but the new Moog replacement I got doesn't look so hot either. I can find the watts linkage with ease, but I'm not too sure on the bushings. Shop found loose bolt in suspenion, supposedly unrelated to wheel bearing repair. Yeah, I had to take a look at it. You may need the alignment anyway with certain parts replaced. Wheel bearings needed to be replaced. It's just the casting that's a little oversized.
Once they were apart, and cleaned up, they're more cooperative. Cleaned power steering fluid resevoir to remove debris that was limiting fluid movement and causing noise. They were replaced under warranty and it now is making the same sound. Where did you get that beefy bell crank? Don't forget that dopey plastic cover, which I presume is there to keep the joint from piercing the gas tank if you get rear-ended. Hopefully it fixes it for me otherwise the Moog support guy just told me to put washers on them. Replaced both wheel bearings and hub assemblies.
I had at first ordered the Dorman watts link from RockAuto and after trying to detach the lateral links with a pickle fork I damaged one of the bushings. I felt the area and noticed my bushings on the Watts Linkage or is it around that area, I didn't really have much visibility are completely crumbled. It connects to a bell crank that is attached to the rear axle, and to the body at the other, there are two of them an upper and lower. I also installed urethane bushings in the lateral links since I had them from the Energy Suspension bushing kit, they were the only two bushings I hadn't replaced in the car. I make plans to file under lemon law. Car was gradually pulling more and more to the right.
The left side track arm connects to the bottom of the watts link bellcrank and the right track arm connects to the top of the watts link. The purpose of this setup is simply to locate the body relative to the rear axle with the two track arms serving as lateral braces. Hose replaced, system purged and fluid replaced. I just can't find any replacement or repair info and would appreciate any help. Watts link makes big clunking noise when going over bumps.
Not replaced yet as the part is hard to obtain and garage wants to look at car again 91935 km £300 Stabiliser bar replaced. Replaced links on both sides. Watts linkage - bell crank replaced this is number 4. There is a hex in the end of the stud for an allen wrench. I was wondering if I could get an opinion on these Watts links. I was wondering if I could get an opinion on these Watts links. If not clear and obvious try a place that specializes in alignments.