On this setup we didn't have to modify the outer quarter panel. I personally think that the roof structures blending between the quarter glass and back glass is about as good as it is going to get proportionally. Thank you Ron you have been an inspiration to us all. The hoods are designed to buckle from the factory. I am also releasing a direct bolt in Rear end Assembly, it will allow braking, gear ratio, and traction options to be setup according to your particular needs.
The factory wheel and tire is the same diameter overall as the 19 inch wheel and tires I plan on running. I am not sure if demand will justify production on any of this, so I will only be making a few kits for in house use and a few do it yourselfer customers that are already building this version of the P1800. We can upgrade steering, braking, suspension, and modern comforts such as air conditioners, touch screen stereos, and back up cameras. Here are the after pictures. A crossover merge will be built in the tunnel, but that's for another day. We will also be working on New Adjustable 4-link arms and coil over mounting bar attachment, which will allow proper rear adjustment and bigger tires due to the elimination of the coil springs.
I still have the make the larger opening on this side, but the tape represenst the wheel arch hieght. These modern engines have amazing power with worry-free reliability, and surprising fuel economy. We trying to make a crossmember kit that is a direct bolt in, there will be no Welding or cutting involved to any of the body or unibody frame work. I am attaching the front a bit differently than the rear, so I can keep alot of the p1800 fenderwork. Adding these is just good insurance, and has become common practice in all rally and many road racing safety cages these days.
I will be tweeking the bottom rear corner of the quarter glass, just havent had time yet. Just the Floater rear end assembly that you can install any 9in ford carrier you may have. This Camaro is pretty overbuilt compared to this E30, so it might be as much as 100-200 pounds heavier, but also has all aluminum front bodywork, fiberglass doors, and most of the unibody structure is gone. The pictures below, show the base level kit with general motor calipers. All this was cut of with an Angle grinder and a cut off wheel, so it is still very free handed. We will weigh the heck out of this car when its off the frame table soon! I cut an inch out the the center of it, so I can reduce the width, and make it snuggley fit the license plate. Mark Stielow First up is Mark Stielow.
Right now, The front Suspension kit is scheduleed for release before too long. I will be performing body mods and developing Newly Designed glass kits to update the car. I have to come up with a close out soluting for the cut ends on the bumper or perhaps work with the left over material and make it one solid bumper. It is essentially the art of adding modern technology to aged designs to create cars that start, stop, drive, handle, and behave like modern performance cars. I have to finish tweeking both bumper to get them to match perfectly.
But the wimpy sheet metal cowl attachment point still needs addressing. With the swaybar location locked down Ryan could then specify the splined aluminum ends to order as well as pick up the end link parts needed to tie the bar into the control arms. Total custom build-Tubular frame-Power windows-Shaved handles-Currie 9-inch rearend-Custom leather interior-Tremec 6-Speed manual transmissionBoze. The firewall was recessed and smoothed out. Plasma cutter made the initial, big cuts on the cowl, then the body could slide down over the chassis to verify fit. Here is what that is has been changed to at this point. Here are some updated pictures.
This coil and plug wire was moved from port to port to make sure each primary tube gave clearance for the plug wire. I am not sure of the part number of the arches I had used. We were told by some that the 10. Swedish Skunk Werks has joined with Vintage Air to offer a quality package. I was wondering what kind of frame was used in the 5k mustang build. Use it to download and purchase digital content, which can be read both online and offline.
So far, everything looks managable. Now I will have to look at it for a couple of days to see if I will scrap this direction, and do something else. I am using wheel arches from a 60's Volvo 122 Amazon, and they appear to work out with a bit more pitch out and a slightly larger opening. After a few days of loud cutting and flying sparks later it was ready to begin reconstruction - all of this happened very fast. It literally just slides under the car with ease, so I think it will be something a novice can do without a whole lot of issue, once the kits are offered. This has to be the hardest thing to figure out so far, who would have thought.
All the cuts I have made are done with a Dewalt Angle grinder. You then would have a more rigid mount, because of more mounting points, and the P1800 mounting plates extend further back and squeeze the outer unibody frame rails. This kits fits the P1800 and the , eventhough they are slightly different. Here are the before pictures with the wheel set at ride hieght. I also added though not from Dave since I got them free sub-frame connectors which also helped in stability.
Please remember the offset of this wheel is not correct, and has it pushed too far out. We had long lost hope for an off-the-shelf one-piece swaybar solution, so as most race builds do we went with a circle-track style splined tubular bar setup. Choose The Right Car Your car has to be affordable, but still turn you on. This is more what we're shooting for. Then the frame rails were removed from the Camaro tub and placed onto the table structure at the right width.