I will also post my personal opinion about what is and is not proper. Could have spent more money on better pistons, but it did what i wanted it to do, make the 7800 mile trip of a lifetime. So, for now just some suggestions on a mild can. This is an extreme solution to a serious problem which usually puts the cost of a replacement motor out of reach for most of our budgets. And the cost of a motor from those folks just does not fit into your budget. He would then have to mess with motor mounts in a chassis never designed to hold it, wiring harnesses, cooling systems, probably needing a 67-70 Riviera center sump pan and pickup, and the other tons of details that it takes to make a motor run. Stick with the cam manufacturers guidelines for axle ratio, converter stall speed, carb size, etc-and you won't go wrong.
You talk to enough motor builders and pretty soon you will throw up your hands and run away! Don't overlook 430's either, they make almost as much power and in general have better heads. ! One trick Barrington and Miller suggested was replacing the stock Conestoga wagon-era rope rear main seal with a neoprene lip seal from a 460 Ford. Clean up the ports a little under the valves bowls and get a good 3 angle or 5 angle valve job. I do like the lopey idle and I'm probably going to keep it mostly stock. The jets that I run are 80's in the front and 88's in the back with a big pop out valve. I would run a 268 or 272 adv duration cam, with around.
This site is dedicated to the restoration and preservation of 1960's and '70's Musclecars. A no weight on the rear truck has it's limitations and if you do rear frame and fender modifications to use a very wide tire the truck is helpless on wet pavement. I had it rebuilt with a shift kit so it shifts nice and firm. He makes you feel maybe that you are in the wrong place— after all, are you looking to take first place in the race next month? Can you use the 700R4 trans on those engines? Next, the guys encouraged us to add cam bearing restrictors that direct more oil to the mains. The fuel is 9-10 lbs run by a Holley pump and the carb is a 850 double pumper Holley with man secondaries.
The intake and exhaust ports were smoothed and cleaned up. The production 455 head we tested at 0. Their biggest downfall is that the small bore limited the size of the valves and that required tons of special headwork. He had to buy special headers to fit them, had to buy roller rockers, had to buy special head bolts. I hope I can reuse the lifters. Cheap at the junkyard, tons of torque popular retrofit in motorhomes but don't like to rev much past about 4200 rpm without aftermarket performance parts.
Not only is it build rock solid, the thing will be ready to roll. My problem is patience, I have very little lol. To reduce the buildup of heat and to help direct the hot gasses out of the head more quickly I filled the crossover port in the heads with zinc. Stick with the Big Block Olds since you don't have to find a core and if its running it could be a very simple upgrade to the better performance stuff. We use special low compression pistons to allow you to get the maximum performance from low octane fuels— this is a critical issue and one not easy to address. For that you'd be able to get a good rebuild kit and machine work, cam, pistons, intake, and headers. Anyway if you build it on the cheap you should still have enough torque to shear a u-joint or two!! Let the grunt pull the car down the road.
Real-world dyno numbers are always better than best guesstimates. Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated. More cam than that and you rapidly get into expensive valvetrain upgrades. This limited flow is partly due to the requirement that the ports especially the exhaust remain in their stock locations. Edelbrock also makes aluminum heads for the big 400-425-455 Olds motors if you want maximum power and don't care about not looking stock. You didn't say if your gauge showed pressure.
Why would I say that first? I then addressed the poor oil return from the heads to the pan. But wait— is that what you want? Offshore manufacturers and foreign processes and materials are being built. The other choice is to put a 455 in it because the only external difference between the two is deck height and top width. I just stumbled accross this thread about Olds 455s and saw that you had a '81 Bonneville with a 455 in it. Oldsmobile 455 engines have a history of low oil pressure and bottom end oil starvation, we address both on this build. So I can keep the trans and not have to dive into cylinders.
Js are the smogger heads and your last-resort choice. When the engine was installed the Toro mounts were perfectly positioned on the frame cross member, so I welded them in place. I did install oil restrictors in the mains during the rebuild per a Mondello tech article on this engine. I then put on a glove and put both hands around it and could move it very little with a lot of effort? If you have oil shooting out of the back, I would have to believe that is where your problem lies. As far as Olds speed parts go the bible is Mondello. I say put that rascal in there! The compression ratio was 10. The front wheel drive gives great traction and great burnouts and the dual exhaust with some kind of useless little mufflers can drown out a 1000 watt stereo system.
My motor was built by a guy that had his on the Dyno at 500hp and he built mine even stronger. Barrington says this was factory intentional to flood the rope seal with oil to prevent it from overheating. I polished the walls of the lifter valley which helps the oil return to the pan quicker. After 1970, compression ratio and horsepower dropped quite a bit. This should make you plenty of power, run on 92 octane, and put a 3800 lb car solidly in the mid to low 13's legit at a track. Oil supply The oil formulations available today are changing.
Gs are okay, with minor porting can be as good as Cs. I want a strong street engine with the highest comp. This would mean that I would not have to change the motor mount position, or the transmission. Without having my fingers, and my nose, in there to see exactly what you're up against, regarding room, it's hard to reccomend an exact solution. Not to mention that it would turn the car into a torque pig monster! The heads aren't bad and the blocks have a few improvements over the 70's. Now the compression is in the upper 180s and will turn 4900.